[Road Less Traveled] Bawean: The Self-Dependent "Virgin"

Sandy island of Noko

Huh?! Bawean? Is it kinda a cake? Where can I buy it? Obviously, there are still many who don't know if it is an island called Bawean. It is not yet so famous for the newbies which make the nature of this island is still preserved. Surely, I felt so lucky to be one of the tourists who have visited here.

As far as my sights toward to the horizon, all I can see is clear blue sky; the blue Sea of Java; and some of small islands covered in green. The small motorboat which I rode on was in maximum speed. I just couldn't wait to run the chance of having my footprints onto the "little paradise" called Noko Island. If I recalled my struggle to reach this place a couple hours ago, I believed everything has been paid off by the magnificent view of Bawean Island.

A couple hours ago...

Sensation of having 12 hours inside the Kertajaya train has passed. Now, I have to get on board a ferry Gresik-Bawean at 9:00 PM. Subairi (Riri), Bawean local guide accompanied me, and also Benny and Anton from Surabaya will be my companion along the trip.


Bawean is just a small island in the middle Sea of Java, precisely at the north of Gresik. The island which still "virgin" interest me to be explored. My visit this time not only a mere enjoy the landscape, but to explore, dig up some infos and find out local traditions. Certainly, Riri will be bombarded with a lot of questions from me.


Hah?! Bawean? Nama jenis kue apa, tuh? Belinya di mana ya? Jelas saja masih banyak yang belum tahu kalau Bawean itu adalah sebuah pulau. Namanya yang belum begitu tersohor di telinga pengelana awam membuat pulau ini masih terjaga alami. Tentunya, saya merasa beruntung menjadi salah satu dari sebagian turis yang pernah berkunjung ke sini.

Sejauh mata saya memandang ke arah garis horizon, yang terlihat hanya langit cerah; laut Jawa yang biru; dan beberapa gugusan pulau kecil yang diselimuti pepohonan hijau. Meski perahu kecil bermotor yang saya tumpangi sudah ngebut semaksimal mungkin, tapi tetap saja saya tak sabar lagi untuk segera menjejakkan kaki di sebuah pulau "surga" kecil yang bernama Pulau Noko. Jika mengingat kembali perjuangan saya untuk mencapai tempat ini beberapa jam yang lalu, saya yakin semuanya sudah terbayar lunas oleh pemandangan Pulau Bawean yang sangat indah.

Beberapa jam yang lalu...

Sensasi 12 jam lebih di dalam kereta Kertajaya telah berlalu, kini saya harus naik kapal ferry Gresik-Bawean pada jam 9 malam. Kali ini saya ditemani oleh narasumber lokal Bawean, bernama Subairi (mas Riri), dan juga Benny dan Anton asal Surabaya yang akan jadi teman perjalananan saya selama di Bawean nanti.

Bawean memang hanya sebuah pulau kecil di Laut Jawa, tepatnya di utara Gresik. Pulaunya yang masih "perawan" menarik minat saya untuk dijelajahi. Tapi tujuan saya kali ini bukan cuma sekadar jalan-jalan menikmati pemandangan saja, namun juga untuk menjelajah, menggali info serta mengetahui tradisi orang Bawean. Dan pastinya Riri bakal dihujani banyak pertanyaan dari saya.

Bawean is right here (Source: Google Maps)

Morning came down as the sun rose up from behind of horizon. At that moment I could see the silhouette of Bawean Island covered in morning fog. The ferry that has sailed Gresik-Bawean for 8 hours finally docked at a concrete wharf. Hundreds of people were seen packed at the edge of that wharf to await their relatives. Without lingering from that crowd, we immediately rented motorcycles to the home stay to prepare anything before the exploration began.

Pagi menjelang ketika mentari baru saja muncul dari balik garis horizon. Pada saat itu juga saya bisa melihat siluet pulau Bawean yang diselimuti kabut pagi. Kapal ferry besar yang telah menempuh jalur Gresik-Bawean selama 8 jam akhirnya menepi di sebuah dermaga beton. Ratusan warga terlihat memadati bibir dermaga itu untuk menanti kerabat mereka masing-masing. Tak berlama-lama dari keramaian itu, kami langsung sewa ojek menuju home stay untuk beres-beres dahulu sebelum penjelajahan dimulai.

The sun greeted me as soon as I arrived. Perfecto!

Couldn't wait for their relatives to arrive

People's daily necessity are imported from Java

We were soon traveling around the Bawean with our motors. Speaking of small island, initially I thought Bawean was an island which was far from modern culture. But, I pulled back my word when I traveled around island's outer ring road. Approximately, 85% of the main road had been covered with asphalt and paving block neatly. Residencies were also seen along the street, such a common situation at the main roads in Java.

Riri told that Gresik government had already began to provide assistance for Bawean infrastructure by tiled the main roads. But eventually, most of paving block roads created by the local self-provided. Dare to say, most of infrastructure progress in this small island were from local's own sweat. Limitation are sometimes forces anyone to try to be self-dependent.

Since long ago Bawean people have proud tradition until this day. It's to wander about. Major of them would wander to neighbor countries, Malaysia and Singapore. They have their own brotherhood community at there which called Boyan People. Even some of them already held an important position there, as Riri told me so.

Kami pun segera melakukan perjalanan mengelilingi Bawean dengan motor. Ngomong-ngomong soal pulau kecil, awalnya saya kira Bawean itu pulau yang masih jauh dari kata modern. Namun pikiran itu tak benar ketika saya mengelilingi jalanan terluar pulau ini. Sekitar 85% jalan utama sudah tertata rapi dengan aspal dan conblock. Perumahan juga terlihat berjejer di sepanjang jalan, sama seperti suasana jalan raya di pulau Jawa. 

Riri menceritakan bahwa pemerintah Gresik memang sudah mulai memberi bantuan infrastruktur Bawean dengan mengaspal jalan-jalan utama. Namun ternyata, sebagian besar jalan raya conblock dibangun atas swadaya warga lokal. Dapat dikatakan, hampir seluruh kemajuan prasarana di pulau kecil ini adalah hasil jerih payah setiap warganya. Keterbatasan memang terkadang membuat siapapun jadi mau lebih berusaha untuk mandiri. 

Sejak dulu orang Bawean sudah mempunyai tradisi merantau yang cukup kental hingga sekarang. Mayoritasnya merantau ke negeri jiran dan Singapura. Di sana mereka sudah memiliki komunitas seperti keluarga sendiri yang disebut Orang Boyan. Bahkan beberapa dari mereka sudah memiliki posisi sebagai orang penting di sana, menurut penuturan mas Riri sendiri. 

Always stopped to side road to took these landscapes

For those who already successful in neighbor countries, they will come back to hometown and bring "gifts" for their families. No wonder if there are so many emptied big homes here. They buy new home to be renovated into good one, then they leave it empty due to family still live in their current home. Yes, Bawean's economy seems driven indirectly by foreign currency.

Living on small island certainly required to import everything from nearby island. All necessities are more expensive than in the capital city as usual. But the expensive thing impacts on the local's life standard which becomes high prestige. During the trip, I hardly to find anyone who rode a bike. Going to everywhere always driving their own motor or car. Public transportation seems already extinct. 3 of 5 locals can be classified into capable economy, said Riri. Yes, it seems their wandering tradition has a significant effect for their hometown.

However, the story becomes different when I had a little chat with Ening on ferry. Ening seemed disagree with the wandering concept these days. He argued that those who wandered to neighbor countries are the one who lose (give up) to situation. They create an image of "begging" in foreign countries. There also another opinion from Riri, 

"Actually, we can't address it as 'wandering'. Then, the locals wandered to neighbor countries were because they had guts to take risks, but now is different... They already had relatives there. They just share the living and find for a job," Riri explained seriously.

Bagi mereka yang sudah sukses di negeri tetangga, mereka bakal kembali ke kampung dengan membawa "hadiah" untuk para keluarganya. Maka tak heran bila di sini cukup banyak rumah besar yang kosong. Mereka membeli rumah baru, kemudian merenovasi jadi bagus, lalu didiamkan saja (tidak ditinggali) karena keluarga yang lain masih tinggal di rumah yang lama. Ya, perekonomian orang Bawean menjadi terdorong secara tak langsung oleh kurs mata uang asing.

Hidup di sebuah pulau kecil pasti mengharuskan segala sesuatu untuk import dari pulau lain. Apapun terasa lebih mahal di sini dari harga di ibu kota seperti biasanya. Namun, segala sesuatu yang mahal berdampak pada standar hidup orang Bawean yang menjadi tinggi aka gengsi. Selama di sana, saya hampir tidak melihat ada warga yang sedang mengendarai sepeda. Kemana-mana selalu menggunakan motor dan mobil, dan yang namanya angkot saya rasa sudah punah. 3 dari 5 warga Bawean dapat digolongkan ke dalam perekonomian mampu, menurut Riri. Ya, nampaknya tradisi merantau mereka membawa dampak yang signifikan pada kampung halaman.

Namun, berbeda ceritanya ketika saya ngobrol dengan Ening di kapal ferry. Ening agak kurang setuju dengan konsep merantau Bawean zaman sekarang. Dia berpendapat bahwa seseorang yang merantau ke negeri tetangga adalah dia yang kalah, karena terkesan "minta-minta" atau ngemis di negeri orang. Ada opini lain juga tentang merantau dari Riri, 

"Sebenarnya untuk sekarang udah nggak bisa lagi disebut sebagai 'merantau'. Kalau dulu orang Bawean merantau ke negeri seberang emang karena nekad, tapi sekarang beda... Di sana udah ada saudara. Tinggal numpang terus cari kerjaan," Riri menjelaskan dengan serius.

Bawean children, Surabaya' boy, and Jakarta's boy

Another unique facts about wandering were not until there. I was surprised when I learned that most of the elderly who once wandered to neighbor countries, actually they had never been stepped a foot in Java island! Those who ever been to Malaysia and Singapura amazed to witness high-rise buildings, escalators, and elevators. Afterward they said, 

"Wooww... such amazing things like these can't be found in Indonesia!" Hahahaha... They assumed Indonesia is only limited in Bawean!

I had a chance to meet with a middle-aged man named Kholisun while on the ferry. He was originated from Surabaya, however he spent half of his life in that small island as a teacher. Accorded to him, Bawean was no longer a small isolated island. Where the 3 important things for life support had advanced. Call them transportation, communication, and economy are provided in here. The small island has now turned into an independent island.

So, how about the leisure travel? Relax, beaches in Bawean are also scenic. Because it's still "virgin", surely the beach and the sea water is still pristine and crystal clear. I also had a chat with Wildan from Department of Fishery who had just come back from Karimun Jawa. For about 2 weeks he, Riri, and their team had a comparative study there. Accorded to their researched, the marine life in Bawean is more abundant than in Karimun Jawa.

Unfortunately at that time I, Benny, and Anton were not be able to enjoy the under sea by snorkeling. Yes, what a pity. Diving and snorkeling facility for tourists is still not available at that time. Even so, a man offered us and he said, "If you want to go diving, just let me know..". My assumption, maybe that man was the only one who could rent diving equipments at the time.

Our disappointment could be replaced by visited the Bawean's main attraction named Noko island. It's a small sandy island in the middle of the sea. The island itself made by a long sandy track with the middle part submerged in shallow sea water. This panoramic landscape a bit similar with the pictures of beaches in Maldives which I ever saw them on the internet. I traveled into the land, and I witnessed the landscape was also stunningly beautiful. As I drove my motor around the island, my eyes couldn't stop to see vast rice fields that gradually turned to yellow and range of rocky hills towered in the middle.

Fakta unik lain tentang merantau ternyata tak sampai di situ saja. Saya kaget ketika mengetahui bahwa sebagian lansia yang dulunya pernah merantau ke negeri tetangga, ternyata mereka belum pernah menginjak yang namanya Pulau Jawa! Mereka yang pernah ke Malaysia dan Singapura terbengong-bengong melihat ratusan gedung tinggi, eskalator, dan lift. Lalu mereka pun berkata, 

"Wihh... di Indonesia mah ngga ada yang kayak gini, nih!" 
Hahahaha... bagi mereka Indonesia cuma sebatas di Bawean aja!

Saya sempat bertemu dengan seorang bapak bernama Kholisun saat di kapal ferry. Beliau adalah orang Surabaya, namun separuh hidupnya ia habiskan di pulau kecil itu sebagai pendidik. Menurut beliau, Bawean sudah bukan lagi sebagai pulau kecil yang terisolir. Di mana 3 hal penunjang utama kehidupan sudah maju. Sebut saja transportasi, komunikasi, dan ekonomi semuanya tersedia di Bawean. Pulau kecil itu kini telah berubah menjadi pulau yang mandiri.

Lalu, bagaimana dengan acara jalan-jalan senangnya? Tenang, pantai-pantai di Bawean juga nggak kalah indahnya. Karena masih "perawan", tentu saja pantai dan lautnya masih bersih dan jernih. Saya juga sempat ngobrol dengan Wildan dari Dinas Perikanan yang baru saja pulang dari Karimun Jawa. Selama sekitar 2 minggu dia, Riri, dan tim lainnya melakukan studi banding di sana. Menurut hasil penelitiannya, ternyata biota laut di Bawean lebih melimpah dibandingkan di Karimun Jawa.

Sayangnya, pada saat itu saya, Benny, dan Anton tidak bisa menikmati keindahannya dengan ber-snorkeling ria. Ya, sangat disayangkan sekali, karena di sini fasilitas untuk snorkeling dan diving turis masih belum tersedia dengan sempurna. Meski begitu, kami sempat ditawari seorang bapak dan ia berkata, "Kalau mau nyelam, bisa tolong kasih tahu saya aja, ya...". Asumsi saya, kemungkinan bapak itu satu-satunya yang dapat menyewakan alat selam pada saat itu.

Untungnya kekecewaan kami dapat tergantikan dengan mengunjungi main attraction-nya Bawean yang bernama Pulau Noko. Yaitu sebuah pulau kecil yang hanya berupa pasir di tengah-tengah laut. Pulau pasirnya memanjang dan di bagian tengahnya terendam air laut. Pemandangan ini sepintas mirip dengan foto-foto pantai di Maldives yang saya pernah lihat di internet. Wisata di bagian dalam pulaunya pun juga nggak kalah menarik. Selama kami berkendara bebek besi mengitari pulau, mata kami disuguhkan persawahan luas yang tampak menguning beserta jajaran bukit batu yang menjulang di tengahnya. 

 

I didn't get bored to see this heavenly landscape

(Source: wikipedia.org)

Must visit place, Noko-Gili sand island (Source: kaskus.co.id)

There is a unique fact about the tourists who ever visited here. Averagely, the tourists come from neighboring countries. Mostly, they are the Boyan's descendant who purposely come with the intention to find their ancestors, told Riri. That's why, I had chance to meet some teens who talked with us using Upin-Ipin language.

To reach Bawean, ferry/boat is the only option for this time, with different class, schedule, speed, and price (you can check the link below). There already is a plane runway, but what can be expected in Indo.. project has not completed until now. Somehow the fund has "lost" to nowhere.

No worries for accommodation... There're some hotels and lodges here with reasonable price, about Rp75.000 - Rp500.000. I suggest to rent a vehicle to facilitate your exploration. Since I didn't want the trip just a mere travel, I accompanied by local guide to channel my passion for travel journalism.

Bawean should be aware of its tourism potential. The locals have formed a team by now to promote their hometown via its own website. However, the efforts to commercialize this island brings both pros and cons. For those who agree, tourism is surely a profitable. But there is other "party" who disagree due to worry that westernization will overtake their tradition.

"They are too worried if those bikini-clads will invade the island," said Riri.

Recently, Riri and the team will strive forth to ensure their people to aware of the importance to preserve culture and nature, so the tourism will be increased.

Ada cerita unik tentang turis yang pernah datang ke sini. Rata-rata turis yang berkunjung ternyata datang dari negeri seberang. Biasanya mereka adalah keturunan orang Boyan yang memang sengaja datang kemari untuk mencari leluhur mereka, cerita Riri. Makanya, pas saya di sana sempat bertemu dengan gerombolan muda-mudi yang mengajak kami ngobrol dengan bahasa Upin-Ipin.

Untuk mencapai Bawean, saat ini hanya bisa menggunakan kapal ferry dengan kelas, jadwal, kecepatan, dan harga yang berbeda-beda (bisa lihat link di bawah). Sudah ada landasan pesawat, tapi ya namanya juga Indo.. proyeknya belum selesai hingga sekarang. Entah "hilang" kemana dananya itu.

Soal akomodasi nggak usah khawatir... Di sini sudah tersedia beberapa penginapan dengan harga relatif murah, kisaran Rp75.000 - Rp500.000. Saya sarankan untuk menyewa kendaraan untuk memudahkan penjelajahan kalian. Berhubung saya nggak cuma jalan-jalan saja, maka saya menggunakan jasa guide lokal demi menyalurkan hasrat saya dalam travel journalism.  

Sudah seharusnya Bawean sadar akan potensi wisatanya. Warganya kini sudah membentuk tim dan mulai mempromosikan kampung mereka lewat situs yang mereka buat sendiri pula. Namun, usaha untuk mengkomersilkan pulau ini mendatangkan pro dan kontra. Bagi mereka yang setuju, tentunya wisata dapat mendatangkan keuntungan. Tapi ada "pihak" lain yang tak setuju dengan alasan khawatir bila budaya barat bisa masuk.

"Mereka takut jika turis-turis yang berbikini bakal menginvasi pulau," cerita Riri.

Untuk saat ini, Riri beserta tim akan berusaha untuk memberi penyuluhan pada warga Bawean akan pentingnya untuk melestarikan alam dan budaya mereka, sehingga turis yang berdatangan pun semakin bertambah.

Incomplete airport

Gresik-Bawean 18 hours trip by this ferry

Benny, Subairi, and Anton

"It's not about the destination, but the journey"

Complete guide website about Bawean:
http://baweantourism.com/

Any questions about local guide?
- Subairi (Mr. Riri): 081249008255
- Mrs. Yana         : 0819882967/08113342167 

*NOTE:
Snorkeling facility is now available since Dec 2014.